Prada AW13 at Milan Fashion Week

We all know that Milan Fashion Week will deliver a big dose of glamour from some of fashion’s biggest names; Gucci, Fendi, Moschino, Versace, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, the list goes on…. and much as I would like to write about every show, the day job has a tendency to get in the way. So I’m dedicating this post to Prada’s AW13 show, which had so many great looks that I struggled to edit it down to just five!

The show was staged on a shadowy set that screamed film noir; the perfect backdrop for a steady stream of femme fatales, sporting pencil skirts and lipstick pouts – their wet, somewhat bedraggled hair and metallic peep toes giving them an edge and dragging this nostalgic look into the 21^st century.

The strong silhouettes are familiar territory for Prada, and coats are one of the few things I enjoy about winter, so Prada’s were hugely appealing for me, with bell sleeves, belted waists, neat collars and  oversized buttons.

Greys, browns and blacks are obvious winter staples, so it was nice to see them punctuated with emerald green, sugary pinks and bright reds. Gingham was another playful touch, with candyfloss pink and white for the girlier-girls amongst us, or my personal favourite – the more muted version that you can see below. Block colour was also broken up with bold wide stripes in muted shades of red, mustard yellow and turquoise.

The fabrics ranged from lighter cottons to heavier blanket-like tweeds, which made for some interesting layering, with long sleeve tees adding a pop of colour under a more formal dress.

This being Miuccia Prada, an Italian with an appreciation for all things luxurious, it was no surprise to see fur, particularly a rather cosy-looking chocolate brown coat. If anyone knows of a good faux-fur high street version it would make a very useful addition to my wardrobe!

Accessories continued the playful retro feel, with over sized bowling bags and dark, aviator style sunglasses. You never know, AW13 might just be the season that we actually see some winter sun! And if not, we'll just have to hop on a plane and find it elsewhere…

Images from style.com

www.prada.com

London Fashion Week AW13 – runway highlights

As London Fashion Week drew to a close on Tuesday, criticism began emerging from several journalists that with the event's growing success, it is losing a lot of what previously made it interesting. Where London was once primarily a launch pad for new designers it is now competing with the big guns, and bringing with it a more grown up feel – and sadly it would seem that some are reading 'grown up' as 'boring'.

Unfortunately I was unable to make any shows for the first time in many seasons. Instead I have been thanking my lucky stars for the internet, allowing you to stream live shows and view pictures almost instantly. All the information is delivered right to your desk, which certainly helps ease the withdrawal symptoms. You can almost hear the flash bulbs clicking and taste the champagne – plus there's no queuing in the cold to squeeze into crowded venues!

Rather than writing several lengthy posts about various collections, I thought I’d offer up five of my favourite looks, from five designers who continue to embrace London’s offbeat style, and are proof enough to me that London still produces some of the best looks from the world's top designers.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

My love of all things Vivienne Westwood is no secret, and every collection offers something that I'll be lusting after. In the case of AW13 it was this checked skirt – the yellow and purple give it an edge and it can be styled a million ways. I love the zebra stripe jacket too and the sheer blouse underneath; I might not wear all three pieces together but would very happily find a place for each of them in my wardrobe! Might give the make up a miss though...

Clements Ribeiro

I'm a sucker for all things tartan and this Clements Ribeiro dress is a great example of how to do punk for the over 25s! The ankle boots are a great finishing touch too. Although if I'm honest I would probably take the hem up a few inches if wearing it with flats!

Felder Felder

Don't you just want to hug this piece?! It's a really nice alternative to your traditional fur coat, the colour is absolutely perfect and the belt gives it a great shape, preventing the model from getting lost altogether! It may be a little yeti for some, but I for one am smitten.

House of Holland

Well nobody can accuse Henry Holland of being grownup or boring! Still a fan of both graphic prints and the occasional slogan, his AW13 was a riot of colour. This dress was definitely the standout piece for me – another great design from a man who never takes fashion too seriously.

Burberry Prorsum

Ahh the classic Burberry mac... it is forever being reincarnated and while the design stays much the same, it is given a new lease of life with new prints and fabrics. The heart motif is pretty damn irresistible but let's face it, you can see the H&M knock-offs already. Expect to see the high streets awash with hearts very soon!

Images from Style.com

Victoria Beckham AW13 at New York Fashion Week

There was a time at the height of the ‘wag’ pandemic, that I never thought I would be writing about Victoria Beckham in terms of five successful years in the fashion industry. Yet the former Spice Girl shed her old image as successfully as she shed those infamous hair extensions, and hushed even the harshest of critics with her first catwalk outing in 2008.

Having found her true calling (let's face it, she was always more enthusiastic about fashion than pop music), this incredibly hard-working fashion devotee is celebrating almost half a decade in the business. She certainly knows a thing or two about silhouettes and creating the kind of unpretentious, feminine clothes that women want to wear – possibly thanks to her own Roland Mouret obsession – and her latest ready-to-wear collection is yet more evidence of this.

Victoria's AW13 collection shown at New York Fashion Week on Sunday was  a lesson in contrasts. The sixties style dresses had short hemlines and high necks, while the calf-length pencil skirts featured seductive slits that kept things just the right side of demure. A palette of black, charcoal and inky blues let the clean lines do the talking but was punctuated at times with flashes of regal purple or lemon yellow.

Skinny waist-cinching belts created sleek shapes, balancing the more voluminous pieces and bell sleeves. The makeup and hair was minimal and the accessories were spot on, with oversized structured handbags and fabulous Manolo Blahnik pointed booties. This collaboration with the king of footwear is clearly a proud moment for Victoria, who says in this month’s Elle:

“The fact that I’m working with him now on the shoes for my ready-to-wear is a dream come true. I mean, who’d have thought? If you’re going to make shoes, who do you want to collaborate with? Duh. Manolo Blahnik right?” Duh indeed!

Standout pieces included an oversized men’s style check coat and YSL inspired smoking number with clever slit sleeves. The diffusion line, Victoria, Victoria Beckham is also worth checking out; it is hugely accessible but still very much in keeping with the Beckam aesthetic.

Victoria Beckham has very much found her fashion feet, and as well as demonstrating the power of understated chic, she has taught us all another valuable lesson – when it comes to fashion, leave your preconceptions at the door. Although really we should have foreseen this career success, after all she was the only Spice Girl smart enough to avoid Buffalo trainers like the plague....

Images from style.com

www.victoriabeckham.com

@victoriabeckham

The Blackout at the Electric Ballroom, Camden

There are some things in life that you can’t help but enjoy, despite knowing you are officially far too old for them (Coco Pops, SpongeBob SquarePants, staying in your PJs until lunchtime…), and it’s exactly the same with music. My personal guilty pleasure is a band from Merthyr Tydfil, Wales called The Blackout, frequently described as ‘post-hardcore’ and a firm favourite with teenagers and readers of Kerrang! magazine.

I first saw them at Download in 2010 and I thoroughly enjoyed myself, but admittedly I was fairly drunk. In hindsight I thought that perhaps I had enjoyed it in the same way that one would enjoy 5ive – with great enthusiasm but a serious dose of irony.

I saw them again at Slam Dunk festival last summer, where quite worryingly they put on a better performance than fellow Welshmen Funeral For a Friend! Now that really surprised me. But yet again, I was more than a little drunk (sensing a theme?!), and in hazy retrospect I found myself wondering if my memories were really all that accurate. But a few sober album listens confirmed my suspicions – this was more than just a drunken fling, and now I was confused.

So last Friday at the Electric Ballroom was a revelation, because I learned something that I thought I knew but was never completely sure about  – The Blackout are actually good! Maybe not in a Led Zeppelin, Rolling Stones, going down in history as one of the all-time greats kind of way... but we all know that gigs are about showmanship, sing-along potential and having (beer-fuelled) fun, and The Blackout have that down. Admittedly the average age was about 18, but silver linings and all that – we had an excellent view and there were no queues at the bar.

The Blackout formed in 2003, and they are currently promoting their fourth studio album Start the Party. The album title says it all, because although they might be ‘post-hardcore’ (still not convinced that shoe fits exactly), essentially they are six happy Welshmen who just want to have fun and not sing about misery and bleeding hearts all day – and there is certainly a place for that!

Self-awareness and sense of humour is another plus, and comedy moment of the night came from Sean Smith, in response to a chant of ‘sheep-shagger’ (shame on you teens of Camden!): “Yep, we fuck ‘em and you eat ‘em!” He also made us laugh referring to the ‘heaviest song they’ve written’ before playing It's High Tide Baby, possible their most bubblegum track to date.

All in all it was a very good night, and quite frankly it feels nice to be out of the closet. That’s right ladies and gentleman, my name is Jen, I'm 28 years old, and I like The Blackout. And you know what? I’m not even sorry!

www.theblackout.net
@TheBlackout

Top 5 Winter Wellies

Seeing as it’s been such a snowy week, it seems like a good time to offer up some practical yet pretty footwear. After all, everyone knows that it’s not snow that’s the real problem – it’s the slushy, icy mess that follows. And there really is no reason for waterproof footwear to be ugly! So whether you want designer wellies or boots on a budget, here are the five brands you need to know. 

1. HUNTER

Hunter is the go-to brand for stylish wellies, having been brought to the fashion forefront by the likes of Kate Moss at Glastonbury. Personally I love them for their narrow fit and huge range of styles – they have kept my feet dry and smug at more than one Download festival! They are understated and if you're not a welly person, you can always rely on Hunter for something that doesn't make you feel too ridiculous. They come in a huge variety of colours but I opted for black. Pictured here are my black gloss pair (on the right) and the rather fabulous Jimmy Choo versions, that neither my budget nor my conscience could stretch to.

Original black gloss, £89 www.hunter-boot.com

2. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ANGLOMANIA & MELISSA

Vivienne Westwood & Melissa have a rather impressive way of making plastic stylish, so it is no surprise that they make a rather stylish selection of waterproof boots! These ankle boots are perfect for rainy days in the city, keeping your feet dry without you having to embrace that ‘long walk in the country’ look. They were heavily reduced on many sites and are now largely out of stock, but the black versions can currently be found on Nonnon.

Vivienne Westwood & Melissa Booties, £72 www.nonnon.co.uk

3. BURBERRY

Ever since Burberry successfully managed to detach itself from that nasty 90s chav association (God bless you Christopher Bailey!), they have returned to the height of country chic, and that iconic check has once more become stylish. These boots are a great example of what they do best, fusing classic style with a quirky twist. Gotta love that owl detail!

Aberdale wellies in black, £315, available from Selfridges www.selfridges.com

4. JOULES 

Joules is a great brand for wellies if you want something a bit stylish but without the Hunter price tag. Shades of red are generally a pretty good call and the wellies on the left are a fab coral that will brighten up the dullest of winter outfits.

A bit of humour is a great way to acknowledge the ridiculousness of wellies, and as it seems impossible to get hold of those awesome childhood frog wellies in adult sizes (believe me, I’ve looked.) I plumped for these beauties on the right. Green is a classic welly colour and the fox print is inspired!

Premium Glossy Wellies in red, currently 20% off, only £51.96

Green Fox Wellies £37.95

www.joules.com

5. GUCCI

Trust Gucci to make the most un welly-like wellies on the market. These babies are shiny, sleek and almost don’t look like wellies at all! Their brogue style is tasteful and understated and a weekend wardrobe essential, especially in this vile English weather. Thank you Gucci!

Brogue-style Wellington boots, £200, available from Net-A-Porter www.net-a-porter.com

Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail 1700-1915

Fashioning Fashion is one of the books that I've reviewed for the latest issue of My Creative Diva magazine. I’m a sucker for glossy fashion books but this made a nice change as it looks at the history of fashion and the way it has influenced some of today’s biggest designers. For more of my reviews and lots of interviews with some creative and inspiring women head over to www.my-creativediva.co.uk.

We live in a world of fast fashion, where trends come and go in the blink of an eye and affordable high street clothing means that we can clear out our wardrobes each season. Eighteenth and nineteenth century fashion was much slower and therefore greater attention was paid to detail, resulting in some fabulously intricate clothing that would have been treasured by their owners.

Fashioning Fashion highlights a major collection of European dress acquired by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art from two of the foremost dealers in the field, Martin Kamer and Wolfgang Ruf. It is a celebration of the beauty of fashion from years gone by that takes you through the evolution of European fashion, including significant pieces such as an embroidered man’s vest emblazoned with powerful messages relevant to the French Revolution. The text provides historical context to show how political events and technological innovations have influenced style, whilst the beautiful large images combine paintings from the time with photographs from today’s catwalks.

It is wonderful to see how these beautiful items from the past have inspired contemporary designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Christopher Bailey, and to admire the silhouettes from centuries ago that remain just as stylish and desirable today.

Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915, £36.00

Published by Prestel

ISBN 987-3-7913-5062-2

Tim Walker: Story Teller at Somerset House

With Christmas, flu and all manner of other inconveniences well out of the way, I’m officially back to work, and I’m aware this blog’s balance has tipped heavily in the favour of ‘rock’ in recent months, so I fully intend to give ‘runway’ the space it deserves. First up is the Tim Walker exhibition in the East Wing Galleries at Somerset House, that I promised to review way back in September when I unsuccessfully stalked him at The RPS Awards.

Giant doll kicks Lindsey Wixson Eglingham Hall, Northumberland, 2011 © Tim Walker

In a world where creativity is increasingly computer generated, there is something refreshing, and indeed magical, about the fantasy world that Walker captures using a spectacular array of other-worldly props. From an elegant swan boat to a giant doll with blonde ringlets, he conjures up a dream world where anything is possible, and if a prop looks real, then that is probably because it is.

My obsession with Walker’s work began many years ago whilst writing my university dissertation, an exploration into the relationship between fashion magazines and body image in women. It was more specifically a defence of the fashion magazines that I love so dearly, and an attempt to demonstrate that fashion is such an elaborate myth that it cannot possibly have a negative effect on a woman’s body image unless there is an underlying issue already.

Walker’s work was the perfect example. The beautiful shoots that I would pore over in Vogue often showed little of the clothes, or even the female form, focussing instead on telling a rather stylish yet fantastical story or capturing a beautifully lit scene. I had discovered a true artist and not someone whose primary focus was the hard sell (although there is no denying that the end product was, and still is, always very desirable.)

Tim Walker: Story Teller is a celebration of some of his most memorable work to date. It is an incredible well-curated exhibition, with a selection of prints displayed alongside installations and some of his most iconic props that bring the images to life. Almost as soon as you enter you are greeted by the near life-size Spitfire thats tail can be seen bursting through a door behind which stands an immaculate Lily Donaldson.

Lily Donaldson and Blue Spitfire Glemham Hall, Suffolk, 2009 © Tim Walker

The Blue Spitfire in place at Somerset House

What struck me the most whilst wandering through the gallery is a fact that I already knew but that became clearer than ever when standing face to face with such a beautiful collection – that Walker is the complete package. He is not simply a technically gifted photographer who can take the best possible shot of a given subject, he is a visionary, someone with the ability to conceive an amazing idea in preliminary sketches, turn it into a reality then capture perfectly the original story that he wanted to convey.

If I sound a little obsessed with Tim Walker it’s because I am, and have been ever since his work first jumped out at me from the pages of Vogue. He doesn’t just take a picture, he quite literally creates it, and in the glossy world of fashion his work always stands out thanks to his ability to consistently create something colourful and new. There are only a few weeks left of the exhibition, so if you are interested in either fashion or photography, I recommend you take a trip and see for yourself exactly why, for me, Walker is the most distinctive fashion photographer of his era.

Tim Walker: Story Teller, until 27 January at Somerset House, free admission

www.somersethouse.org.uk

Karlie Kloss and broken Humpty Dumpty Rye, East Sussex, 2010 © Tim Walker

A fabulous installation featuring giant snails used in a shoot

Alexander McQueen with skull and cigarettes Clerkenwell, London, 2009 © Tim Walker