London Fashion Week AW15 - runway highlights

New York, London and Milan Fashion Weeks have been and gone for another season, and with the fashion pack in Paris for the final week of madness, I wanted to share a few of my runway highlights so far. First up, London.

London is often regarded as the most creative and original fashion week (I would say that...) and ever since the legendary Christoper Kane brought Burberry back to our capital in 2009, it has continued to grow in status. (As a side note, I truly believe Christopher Kane should be knighted for wrestling Burberry back from the chavs, establishing it as a British icon to be proud of once more, and making it the most desirable ticket on the LFW schedule.)

This year sees the return of another British icon, Gareth Pugh, who has spent the last seven years showing in Paris and Milan. This is definitely cause for celebration and a good move on his part – there is no denying his dark aesthetic and almost McQueen-like theatrics belongs with the home crowd.

So without further ado, let's take a look at some of this season's most inspiring looks...

Gareth Pugh, AW15

Gareth Pugh's return to London was always going to be a dramatic one and, according to the man himself, inspiration was drawn from the equally optimistic and dark notion of 'sacrificing yourself to something bigger'. His own English heritage and sense of national pride was quite literally painted on the models' faces, who all sported dramatic St George's Crosses.

Ok, so we might not be recreating the makeup anytime soon, and the hats may be a little much for a Wednesday morning in the office, but the coats? The coats were beautiful, wearable and impeccably tailored. Another fabulous, dramatic show from the man whose genius was described as 'undeniable' by British Vogue back in 2007.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15

Nobody is going to be surprised to see me include a little Vivienne Westwood Red Label. I love this woman and for very good reason. Yes, her show will always have an agenda (this time promoting the Green Party) and yes, her punk ways will always be evident in the styling (disheveled hair and makeup, skull jewellery) but don't let all that detract from the fact that Ms Westwood sure knows how to cut clothes for women. You only have to look at the drape of her dresses to see why women feel like women in her clothes.

On a personal note, she incorporated just the right amount of animal print to keep me happy. Whether it was to add personality to an otherwise classic look (above left) or in a stunning dress that screams sex in all the right ways, she was right on the money.

Giles AW15

Oh Giles, what can I say... you really know how to put on a show! Here's yet another British boy who can combine glamour, theatrics and the slightly bizarre and produce something truly magical. The collection was reminiscent of the early Giles Deacon dark aesthetic, combining Victoriana ruff-collars and corsets with gothic black lipstick. All of which were given added drama by an all-star cast of models, including Lily Donaldson, Jessica Stam, Kendall Jenner, Erin O'Conner and Edie Campbell.

The collection was actually very wearable, if you look past the haunting theme and examine the individual pieces. The tailoring was superb and I'm a little bit in love with the Miss Haversham-esque tree and jewel print fabric (above). Definitely one of my favourite collections this season.

Felder Felder AW15

I've had a real soft spot for Felder Felder ever since my good friend Sian and I queued in the cold for an hour to get into one of their shows. It was a hot ticket and we were the last people allowed inside before the doorman slammed the doors and turned the rest of the queue away! Needless to say I was hoping we would be rewarded with a good show, and we were. Since 2006, twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder have been making industry waves with their feminine yet edgy designs and this season was no different.

The collection was inspired by 1960s German model Uschi Ubermaier and subsequently there were a lot of short skirts and sheer fabrics (presumably the versions that hit the shops will be lined). The fabrics were certainly beautiful. Black and teal are two of my favourite colours and, whether 60s or 90s inspired, I do appreciate a short hemline. One thing that I've only just learnt is that the Felder sisters are commited vegans, so not only are their clothes beautiful but they are cruelty free! Good job ladies.

Ashish AW15

If Vivienne Westwood screams sex in a classy way, this next show screamed sex quite literally, with the word emblazoned across the sweatshirt of the second look that graced the catwalk. Ashish had his reasons for this overt message, saying, "I think it is interesting that when a woman dresses sexily, she is labelled a slut. Which I find strange and offensive – it should not be the case. Everybody should be free to dress how they want without being labeled. I wanted it to be sexy and powerful – empowering."

Whether bright red thigh-high boots inspired by Parisian streetwalkers are the way to go about spreading this message is up to the individiual, but what I will say is that Ashish produced possibly my most-wanted piece of LFW. Nope, not the sequined underwear.... not the thigh-high boots.... it was that coat. A sequined parka with leopard print lining?! He may as well have sewn my name straight into the label.

All images from www.style.com

London Fashion Week SS14 – runway highlights

Picking out runway highlights from London Fashion Week this season was actually pretty tricky. It has a justified reputation as the most creative fashion week of the big four (although perhaps I’m a little biased!), so editing my favourites down to an appropriate length post was a challenge. This is by no means all of my favourite looks but a selection of the ones that inspired me the most.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Nobody is going to be shocked that I’ve included a little Vivienne Westwood – how could I not? Every season she finds a new way to seduce me, producing an amazing collection with a hint of political activism and showstopping (completely off-the-wall!) makeup. The bold colours are a great example of how to do spring florals in a non-girly way and those burnt orange flats are gorgeous. Plenty of pieces were actually quite classic in design, fulfilling Westwood’s Red Label ethos that we should ignore throwaway fashions and choose quality over quantity.

Temperley London, www.temperleylondon.com

This may well be my favourite piece of the entire week! It is such a beautiful shape and that print is absolutely incredible – purple flowers that graduate into leopard print? Perfection. Inspired by a holiday in Sicily, the collection was awash with trapeze shapes, striking jewel toned fabrics and crystal embellishments. With Ulrik Garde Due (formerly of Georg Jensen, Burberry, and Céline) at the helm and the Duchess of Cambridge as a client, things are looking good for Temperley London.

Burberry Prorsum

Arguably the jewel in the London Fashion Week crown, and most definitely the event's heavyweight, Burberry Prorsum shows are always much anticipated. The SS14 collection did not disappoint; classic pencil skirts were given a modern twist with graphic monochrome spots or stripes, and teamed with blouses or the perfect spring jumper – round neck, a slim fit and artfully pushed up sleeves. An incredibly desirable and accessible collection in every way but the price!

House of Holland

Never one to take fashion too seriously, Henry Holland designs are normally full of humour and youthfulness. I was quite surprised by some of the more grownup styles on offer for SS14, such as this perfectly cut rose-print shirt dress. The collection was largely influenced by Baz Luhrman’s Romeo and Juliet, which can be seen in the tattoo style prints and religious iconography. House of Holland is certainly evolving – Henry hasn't lost his cool, but these are pieces that will stand the test of time.

Giles

Always a sucker for a kitsch motif, I’m head over heels for this lip-print dress by Giles Deacon. Refusing to head down the obvious floral spring path (this is my kind of guy!) his show shunned the typical summer frivolity in favour of a melancholy vibe. Funnily enough it was this less than melancholy piece that caught my eye, teamed with Adidas superstars. I love heels as much as the next woman but these trainers are classics – Run DMC would be proud!

I'm still playing fashion catch up but will be back soon with my Milan and Paris runway highlights.

All images © Style.com

London Fashion Week AW13 – runway highlights

As London Fashion Week drew to a close on Tuesday, criticism began emerging from several journalists that with the event's growing success, it is losing a lot of what previously made it interesting. Where London was once primarily a launch pad for new designers it is now competing with the big guns, and bringing with it a more grown up feel – and sadly it would seem that some are reading 'grown up' as 'boring'.

Unfortunately I was unable to make any shows for the first time in many seasons. Instead I have been thanking my lucky stars for the internet, allowing you to stream live shows and view pictures almost instantly. All the information is delivered right to your desk, which certainly helps ease the withdrawal symptoms. You can almost hear the flash bulbs clicking and taste the champagne – plus there's no queuing in the cold to squeeze into crowded venues!

Rather than writing several lengthy posts about various collections, I thought I’d offer up five of my favourite looks, from five designers who continue to embrace London’s offbeat style, and are proof enough to me that London still produces some of the best looks from the world's top designers.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

My love of all things Vivienne Westwood is no secret, and every collection offers something that I'll be lusting after. In the case of AW13 it was this checked skirt – the yellow and purple give it an edge and it can be styled a million ways. I love the zebra stripe jacket too and the sheer blouse underneath; I might not wear all three pieces together but would very happily find a place for each of them in my wardrobe! Might give the make up a miss though...

Clements Ribeiro

I'm a sucker for all things tartan and this Clements Ribeiro dress is a great example of how to do punk for the over 25s! The ankle boots are a great finishing touch too. Although if I'm honest I would probably take the hem up a few inches if wearing it with flats!

Felder Felder

Don't you just want to hug this piece?! It's a really nice alternative to your traditional fur coat, the colour is absolutely perfect and the belt gives it a great shape, preventing the model from getting lost altogether! It may be a little yeti for some, but I for one am smitten.

House of Holland

Well nobody can accuse Henry Holland of being grownup or boring! Still a fan of both graphic prints and the occasional slogan, his AW13 was a riot of colour. This dress was definitely the standout piece for me – another great design from a man who never takes fashion too seriously.

Burberry Prorsum

Ahh the classic Burberry mac... it is forever being reincarnated and while the design stays much the same, it is given a new lease of life with new prints and fabrics. The heart motif is pretty damn irresistible but let's face it, you can see the H&M knock-offs already. Expect to see the high streets awash with hearts very soon!

Images from Style.com

London Fashion Week: Inspired by Minnie Mouse

Today’s Friday fashion fix is devoted to a little something that I found at London Fashion Week – the Inspired by Minnie Mouse Exhibition, where several prominent designers have celebrated Disney with a one-off creation.

Shoes by Terry De Havilland

From Giles Deacon to Katie Hillier, these are some seriously stylish pieces, all incorporating that infamous mouse. I’m not sure I can actually pick a favourite design, but I will say that when I saw these Terry De Havilland peep toes, I wanted to smash the Perspex display case they were contained in, stuff them into my handbag and run like hell! (Take from that what you will.)

Dress by Giles Deacon

Necklace by Katie Hillier

Necklace by Tatty Divine

 This is also a very appropriate post as I am saying goodbye and heading to Orlando for two weeks of fun in the sun. My holiday is perfectly timed, because frankly I don’t deal with cold weather all too well and the last few days the temperature has really dropped. Has anyone else caved and put the heating on or is that just me?!

I was hoping to line up a guest blogger for while I am gone so that my little blog doesn’t stay too quiet, but unfortunately I haven’t had the time and as usual I seem to be working up to the eleventh hour! So I’m afraid you’ll have to sit tight and check back on my return.

In other news, for those of you who haven’t seen it, I thoroughly recommend heading over to My Creative Diva, a new online lifestyle magazine aimed at creative women. Edited by the lovely Joan Gordon, it is full of food, fashion and all the things ladies loves, plus interviews with lots of creative women. Check out p24-25 for my book reviews – some seriously good reading material has been landing on my desk lately including The Fashion Design Directory which I have reviewed in issue 1.

Have a wonderful few weeks and a big thank you again for regularly reading my ramblings. I would happily write with no audience at all because it’s a pretty cathartic process, but having such a lovely audience makes the whole thing so much more satisfying. Don’t forget you can sign up to receive my posts via email – it requires no effort and who doesn’t love that?!

So long and see you on the other side! Probably a tad exhausted but hopefully with a tan and a big smile on my face.

London Fashion Week – a mad dash in a day...

Last Friday I went to the first day of London Fashion Week. I didn't have as much time as usual and it was the only day I could go, but I still managed to squeeze in three shows and a mad dash around the exhibition. Over 100 designers are exhibiting this season and I'll introduce a few of my favourites soon, including some amazing up and coming shoe designers and a fabulous Disney tribute!

This was my first fashion week as a freelancer and I must admit it's not quite the same by yourself. For starters, if you are waiting in line for a show to begin you haven't got much else to do but listen to other people's inane chatter! Speaking of which I learnt one very important lesson  – I might be a journalist with a blog but I am definitely not a 'blogger'.

I know it's like most things in life, (politics, religion..) where a small minority ruin a group's reputation for everyone else, but seriously, when did desperately seeking attention by dressing in the most unflattering clothes possible become a good thing? You might think your hair cut is 'edgy' but to most of us it is quite simply a bowl cut. And ugly shoes? Why oh why?! I am all for a bit of outlandish fashion, but it is possible to achieve it without completely losing sight of what is flattering. And the most amusing thing about these so called bloggers was watching them seek each other out to take photos for their blogs in the name of 'street style'! Hilarious.

Right, now that my little rant is over (apologies, I must be getting hungry), let's get back to the shows. Zoe Jordan was first on my list and it was held at Mercer Studios. Zoe studied architecture at Newcastle and is known for her androgynous designs that combine feminine swagger with a boyish insouciance.

Her Spring/Summer 2013 collection referenced Tina Chow, the African desert and a touch of eighties high school varsity. Loosely translated that meant a versatile collection in a colour pallette of muted greys and browns, livened up with with bright shades of fuchsia and orange. Favourite pieces included bright shorts that I wanted immediately for my imminent holiday, some very cute dresses and skirts, and fabulous slim fit blazers that prevented the more typically girly items from becoming too saccharine.

The photo below is a nice example of her very wearable separates – ideal summer shorts that would look great with a simple white vest and a jumper that you could just throw on with jeans.

Next up was Corrie Nielsen. I was a big fan of her show last season, mainly due to her incorporation of tartan which I just can't resist. This season had a very different feel to it, inspired quite aptly for spring, by the the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew.

It was very easy to see how some pieces will filter down into the high street, but other more abstract pieces were a little far-fetched. I can't say I was the biggest fan of the coat with the sleeves attached down to the wrists that made the model resemble a walking sleeping bag....

However some of the dresses had beautiful shapes and I particularly liked the tulip shaped cream dress (second picture below), but I'm afraid my dodgy photography hasn't really done it justice!

Last but not least was Bora Aksu's show. Bora Aksu has been based in London for 15 years and set up his label after graduating from an MA at Central Saint Martins. His signature style is a real contrast that he describes as "romantic with a darker twist."

His SS13 collection was inspired by Queen Victoria's grand-daughter who became the Queen of Romania in 1922, and the way that she embraced traditional Romanian culture without losing her Englishness. This inspiration led to some quite dramatic regal headwear which to be honest I found a bit distracting, but also some incredibly beautiful dresses – delicate floral prints and very feminine shapes that were often given a structured formal twist with the addition of neat collars and belts.

A standout accessory for me was the pair of printed tights in the last picture. Their semi-transparency and floral designs will make them ideal for that winter to spring transition.

That's all for now but I will post more about some of the talented designers I met at the exhibition very soon.