New York Fashion Week SS16 – Runway Highlights

Yes, it's that time again already... another month of bi-annual fashion madness is well underway, and seeing as we are two weeks in, I decided it was about time I started compiling my runway highlights. First stop New York.

One thing that pleased me about the New York shows was the amount of monochrome, navy and grey on the runways. Plenty of designers gracefully sidestepped the spring cliches and should be applauded for that! Don't get me wrong, if florals and pastels are your thing there were certainly designers that catered for you, but I was very impressed with the amount of labels that included quintessentially autumnal palettes and fabrics in what are undisputed spring styles.

Enough of my rambling, here are are a few of my highlights from the New York Fashion Week runways....

Diesel Black Gold SS16  –  ©Indigitalimages.com

Andreas Melbostad's latest Diesel Black Gold collection was definitely not filled with cliched spring/summer looks. The use of white fabrics, particularly broderie anglaise, left you with no doubt that this was indeed a spring/summer collection, but the predominantly black and navy colour palette (not to mention the use of studs and leather) gave the pieces an edgier feel. Let's face it, any designer who works boots and biker jackets into their summer looks is always going to have my vote...

Jeremy Scott SS16  –  ©Yannis Vlamos/Indigitalimages.com

There are collections that look like they could legitimately fit straight into your wardrobe (see Diesel Black Gold) and others that make you lust after things you never even knew you wanted. Jeremy Scott is just that kind of designer. The Creative Director for Moschino has the ability to make the outlandish desirable. (Remember that McDonald's collection? How the heck do you take an icon synonymous with all things cheap and tacky and make me want to dress in it from head to toe?!)

The spring SS16 collection had a definite sixties feel to the styling – beehives, winged liner, matte orange lips – but the prints were what really caught my eye. According to Scott, the ray-guns and a-line shapes were a homage to sixties B-movies and sci-fi.

This was by no means as outlandish as some of his Moschino offerings – when you break the collection down the individual pieces are actually very wearable – but they are certainly just as much fun. And true to form, he has left me lusting after the unexpected. Who could have predicted that a ray-gun print dress and whale net tights would be at the top of my wish list!

DKNY SS16  –   ©Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

From the bizarre to the classic.... the DKNY collection really tapped into my love of pinstripes. Right from label's inception, Donna Karen's classic aesthetic has always been geared towards providing long-lasting wardrobe staples rather than 'throw-away' fashion. For the SS16 collection, designers Dao Yi-Chow and Maxwell Osborne have drawn inspiration from the early 90s pin-stripe power suit. The result is a collection that references the aesthetic and utilises the fabrics to create new shapes that are far more exciting than the original suit itself.

Givenchy SS16  –  ©Monica Feudi/Indigitalimages.com

My first glimpse of the Givenchy SS16 collection came via makeup artist Pat McGrath's Instagram feed... and what a memorable look! She used lace applique and masks to create striking looks for selected models that were unique and fiercely tribal.

Celebrating his tenth year at the helm, Creative Director Ricardo Tisci explained that the show was "a celebration of life, pure love, different religions and all people." Showing in New York for the first time (to coincide with the opening of a New York Givenchy store) the show also coincided with the 14th anniversary of 9/11, and tastefully acknowledged the event with a rendition of Ave Maria whilst Ground Zero was lit up.

This was another largely monochromatic collection and ranged from every day pieces to classic gowns. The theme of 'pure love' translated into several dresses (such as the one above) that felt almost bridal. Despite all the beautiful clothes it was probably the boots (above left) that really stole my heart.

Overall it was a beautiful collection, and in an era when Givenchy is now so frequently uttered in the same sentence as 'Kim Kardashian', it is reassuring to know that this allegiance has done nothing to diminish the integrity of the Parisian brand. Elegant and timeless – long may Givenchy remain synonymous with its true ambassador... Audrey Hepburn.

Marc Jacobs SS16  –  ©Gianni Pucci/Indigitalimages.com

I'm going to bring this post to a close on a lighter note, with the show that closed New York Fashion Week – Marc  Jacobs. If Jeremy Scott paid unquestionable homage to the sixties and DKNY to the 90s power suit, the inspirations here were a little less clear. From Americana (plenty of red white and blue) to movies, Jacobs certainly indulged in his taste for the nostalgic. Personally my favourite look was the one above featuring the swans - an inspired mashup between Sgt Pepper style military and air hostess chic. Letterman jackets also appeared with a nod to pop culture through the incorporation of the Playboy bunny logo, and gowns were given a unique twist with pop art style prints.

Located at the Ziegfield, this definitely sounded like a show to experience, with popcorn, cigarette girls selling candy and ushers handing out Playbills. The models walked a red carpet half a block long before entering the theatre where the outside events were viewed on the big screen. A memorable close to the week!
Next up, London....

You can find more images from all the shows at www.vogue.com/fashion-shows

New York Fashion Week SS14 – runway highlights

I have to admit, despite being a sun-worshiper who would ideally like 11 months of summer and only one of winter, it is always the autumn/winter fashion shows that get my heart racing. It is very rare that a spring/summer show seduces me in its entirety, probably due to designers' propensity to celebrate the season with pastels, florals and acres of pristine white.

This was indeed the case with the recent New York Fashion Week shows, where there weren't any shows I fell for completely, but there were plenty of standout designers and looks that I'm lusting after. So as we head into winter – I can barely see out my window thanks to the curtain of grey drizzle – let's look ahead to next spring and see what some of New York's finest have to offer.

Betsey Johnson SS14

Oh how I love Betsey Johnson! There weren't any surprises here, it was a collection of her typical 80s silhouettes and ghetto-fabulous accessories. It's all probably a step too far for the more understated New York fashionista, and it certainly doesn't cover any new fashion ground, but seriously – peach hair, fabulous accessories and a liberal scattering of leopard print? I'm starting to think Betsey Johnson collections are designed purely to make me smile!

Christian Siriano SS14

Ok, I know I implied I have an aversion to florals and pastels, but sometimes they are right on the money. At Christian Siriano it was the formal looking collar and those bright lips and matching sandals that prevented the look from becoming too cute – this is the kind of spring fashion I can get on board with. Plus it was shown as part of a collection that included graphic monochrome (want that striped skirt now please), so there was no danger of falling into that overtly-girly-spring-pastels trap!

Hervé Léger by Maz Azria

Since 2007, the Hervé Léger label has been steered under the design direction of Max Azria, a man with the tricky juggling act of staying true to the Hervé Léger aesthetic whilst moving the brand forwards. This season he mixed things up a little, still showing the infamous body-con dresses that we know and love, but adding a variety of zips that allow the wearer to alter the garment's silhouette ever so slightly. The resultant collection didn't abandon the classic bandage dress, but the slight deviations in shape and fabric – such as the flared skirts and crochet dresses – were a welcome addition.

Alexander Wang

The current trend for logos and ironic statements is perhaps due to the fact that a generation of designers – Alexander Wang included – were teens in the nineties and are having a moment of nostalgia. There's no denying that the parental advisory sweater was one of the most memorable pieces in his SS14 collection; I think perhaps he enjoys indulging in a bit of humour when he's not busy in his other role, heading up Balenciaga. Another standout look was the cheekily unbuttoned button-down shirts and those rather comfy looking boxers – not entirely sure how to interpret that one for the office yet but I'm sure there's a way!

Kate Spade New York

I'm the first to admit that my wardrobe can be a little devoid of colour but there are two shades I can always be tempted by – the first is emerald green and the second is the rather in-your-face coral seen at the Kate Spade New York presentation. As usual there was a distinctly 1960s vibe to many of the looks, and a European influence referenced glamorous destinations from Paris to Monaco. Well chosen accessories toned down the more overtly feminine looks: a black leather box bag proving the perfect foil for a coral prom dress, and trainers and a collared shirt successfully taming the florals. It is a very accessible collection that screams summer fun – an image I will be keeping in mind to get me through another grey British winter.

Well that's all for now but I will be posting my London and Milan Fashion Week highlights soon!

All images © Style.com

Victoria Beckham AW13 at New York Fashion Week

There was a time at the height of the ‘wag’ pandemic, that I never thought I would be writing about Victoria Beckham in terms of five successful years in the fashion industry. Yet the former Spice Girl shed her old image as successfully as she shed those infamous hair extensions, and hushed even the harshest of critics with her first catwalk outing in 2008.

Having found her true calling (let's face it, she was always more enthusiastic about fashion than pop music), this incredibly hard-working fashion devotee is celebrating almost half a decade in the business. She certainly knows a thing or two about silhouettes and creating the kind of unpretentious, feminine clothes that women want to wear – possibly thanks to her own Roland Mouret obsession – and her latest ready-to-wear collection is yet more evidence of this.

Victoria's AW13 collection shown at New York Fashion Week on Sunday was  a lesson in contrasts. The sixties style dresses had short hemlines and high necks, while the calf-length pencil skirts featured seductive slits that kept things just the right side of demure. A palette of black, charcoal and inky blues let the clean lines do the talking but was punctuated at times with flashes of regal purple or lemon yellow.

Skinny waist-cinching belts created sleek shapes, balancing the more voluminous pieces and bell sleeves. The makeup and hair was minimal and the accessories were spot on, with oversized structured handbags and fabulous Manolo Blahnik pointed booties. This collaboration with the king of footwear is clearly a proud moment for Victoria, who says in this month’s Elle:

“The fact that I’m working with him now on the shoes for my ready-to-wear is a dream come true. I mean, who’d have thought? If you’re going to make shoes, who do you want to collaborate with? Duh. Manolo Blahnik right?” Duh indeed!

Standout pieces included an oversized men’s style check coat and YSL inspired smoking number with clever slit sleeves. The diffusion line, Victoria, Victoria Beckham is also worth checking out; it is hugely accessible but still very much in keeping with the Beckam aesthetic.

Victoria Beckham has very much found her fashion feet, and as well as demonstrating the power of understated chic, she has taught us all another valuable lesson – when it comes to fashion, leave your preconceptions at the door. Although really we should have foreseen this career success, after all she was the only Spice Girl smart enough to avoid Buffalo trainers like the plague....

Images from style.com

www.victoriabeckham.com

@victoriabeckham

Betsey Johnson at New York fashion week

I've been keeping a watchful eye on New York fashion week, and although there have been some great collections, none this season have truly made me sit up and pay attention. Until yesterday.

Betsey Johnson, the 70 year old fashion legend, presented what is to be her final show – a total celebration of why she has been adored for more than four decades. The iconic fashion designer, who made a name for herself clothing rock & roll stars in the swinging sixties, filed for voluntary bankruptcy earlier this year, and although she will continue to design her lines for stores such as Macys, this show was a final hurrah of sorts.

It featured several of her iconic looks including the Cyndi Lauper style skirts from her 80s era and her classic cherry print. Betsey rounded off the show performing the splits on the runway instead of her signature cartwheel (seriously, this woman is 70?!), and Cyndi Lauper even performed Girls Just Want to have Fun. Of course.

New York is celebrated worldwide for its fashion; a style which is often sleek, chic and a little restrained. But restrained is definitely not a word to describe Betsey, which is what makes her designs so much fun. From rockabilly to playboy bunnies, her looks are brash, bold and not for the faint hearted. And in a sea of shows filled with clean tailoring and luxe fabrics, there is something quite appealing about that.

I'm off to London fashion week tomorrow to catch a few shows and hopefully discover some new names at the exhibition, so more on that very soon. In the meantime here are a few more treats from the fabulous mind of Betsey Johnson. Enjoy!

Images from Style.com