Tuesday 19 March 2013

Paris Fashion Week AW13 – runway highlights (part 2)


As promised, here are the next five shows from Paris Fashion Week that made my heart melt and my credit card shudder.


Possibly my Paris Fashion Week highlight, Lanvin’s was the kind of show you really wanted to be at – not least because of the popcorn and mini bottles of champagne that were served to the waiting audience! I failed to pick just one look, so here are two that I think capture the collection well; a selection of beautiful dresses, inspired by various eras, toughened up with chain accessories and Oxford-style shoes. Attention to detail was everything and I adore the bee brooch. And that box bag? I. Want. One. Now.

Alber Elbaz’ use of graphic slogan necklaces gave the looks a more youthful spin, and they would look just as at home over a simple T-shirt as these beautiful dresses. It really was a great all-rounder – a fusion of classic design and street style that felt completely modern.

Hermes

Hermes’ was an utterly Parisian affair. Paris wasn’t just the setting for the show, it was right at the heart of it, flowing through the veins of every single look. It was chic and understated, not overtly sexy, with hemlines that crept ever lower and waist bands that edged gradually higher. A largely neutral colour palette and a whole host of incredibly wearable separates, resulted in a collection of workwear staples – tasteful but never boring – and the holy grail in items like the perfect white shirt or woollen shift.

Admittedly this aesthetic is still too grown up for me – can you really imagine the Hermes woman spilling beer down her immaculate white blouse or doing the walk of shame in a shift dress? Maybe one day I’ll be strolling down the Champs Elysees in all my Hermes-clad glory having finally nailed grown-up chic… but I wouldn’t hold your breath.

Givenchy

The much celebrated Givenchy collection was actually not my favourite as a whole, but Riccardo Tisci won me over with this look. It is a mishmash of what Tisci does best, and drew inspiration from his extensive eight year archive at the house.

Tisci says, "I always go to the Givenchy archives. I was in the room with all my stuff, and I found things I did when I was younger. I was like a gypsy—gypsies are always recycling old clothes. It was really one of the most fun collections I've done in my career."

A Bambi sweatshirt, sheer polka dot skirt, and sexy leather boots? This look covered a whole lot of fashion ground in one fell swoop.

Louis Vuitton

Again, I wasn’t enamoured with the Louis Vuitton collection as a whole, it featured a few too many silk PJs for my liking, but I loved this look so much I had to include it. If this isn’t the epitome of old-fashioned glamour then I don’t know what is! Silk, fur, acres of bare leg and berry stained lips – it screams luxury.

Like Prada’s, this collection had a seriously femme fatale feel, with a bobbed Cara Delevingne playing the role to perfection. I can just see her now with a cocktail in one hand and a vial of opium in the other… beautiful, glamourous and deadly.

Viktor & Rolf
There was plenty of monochrome on display in this collection, with many of the looks all wrapped up in a typically Viktor & Rolf bow. Given the duo’s eccentric back catalogue, I found everything in their AW13 collection surprisingly accessible – these pieces are made to be worn rather than to make a statement. It wasn’t as edgy as you expect from Viktor & Rolf, but even the classics had a very definite twist. They might be producing more marketable pieces, but they certainly aren’t dull.

This won’t go down in history as Viktor & Rolf’s most memorable collection, but there was plenty to enjoy, and it is nice occasionally to see some looks that don’t require any dilution to be consumed by your average fashion-loving lady.

Images from Style.com
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