Paris Fashion Week AW13 – runway highlights (part 1)

So the madness of the four big fashion weeks is over for yet another season, and I think the best was saved until last! Paris produced many of my favourite collections, so this will be my first of two posts, as it is impossible to pick just five collections to share.

Valentino

Oh dear lord I’m head over heels in love with Valentino this season. The collection had an austere formality to it that was refined and glamourous… and I wanted every single look. The long-sleeved mini dresses were beautiful, with strict white collars and cuffs, in laser cut leather.

The collection was largely monochrome except for the odd flash of electric blue or deep berry red, and the stunning Chinese ceramic-style blue and whites in the dress shown here. The attention to detail was exceptional and I truly loved everything, right down to the accessories; red nails, neat side plaits and Alice bands, T-Bar shoes, pearls. Love it, love it, love it.

Chanel

You can always rely on Chanel to put on a spectacular show, with grand set designs. (Remember that iceberg in 2010?!) Well this season’s show, held as usual at the Grand Palais, featured a gigantic, revolving globe as its centrepiece, marked with the exact locations of Chanel’s 300 stores. The collection was equally impressive featuring gorgeous coats, snugly fur hats and thigh high leather to stop it all becoming too cutesy.

A largely wintery palette of black, grey and blue was livened occasionally by dusky pink. “I wanted a very monochrome silhouette – dark but not sad – a touch of shine, a touch of pink,’ says Karl Lagerfeld.

And sad it was definitely not! Coco's traditional tweeds were brought up to date by Karl’s darker aesthetic – think cute A-line mini skirts paired with leather and chain accessories. My favourite bag was the stunning black, mini globe, with the classic interlocked Cs logo and chain handle.

Saint Laurent

Heidi Slimane’s second womenswear collection for Saint Laurent took its inspiration from 90s grunge and was more than just a nod to the past, as it didn’t necessarily cover a lot of new ground. Many of us already do a pretty good line in 90s grunge for a fraction of the price, so I think this is a typical case of taking inspiration from the streets and selling it back to the masses with a hefty price tag (but isn’t it always?).

There’s no denying I loved this collection though, and it had me wondering whether I’m too old for a return to the fishnets and boots combo. And you know what? Despite the look being modelled by a girl half my age I’ve decided I’m not. Fishnets here I come.

Zadig & Voltaire

I chose this Zadig & Voltaire look because the 90s inspired trouser suit is very definitely back, but this suit is a really nice take on a classic. The fabric and colour choice are unusual and make it much more contemporary and less officey. (Cast aside all thoughts of nasty polyester and terrible tailoring now…)

This was Zadig & Voltaire’s first runway show and had an androgynous feel, thanks to artistic director Cecelia Bönström’s choice of muse, David Bowie. Perfect timing as Bowie releases his first album in ten years and the V&A prepare to host a hotly anticipated retrospective. Leather shorts, knee-high boots, men’s ties, fur coats, tailored jackets – this was vintage rock n roll at its androgynous best.

Emanuel Ungaro

It was nice to see an AW13 collection making such a good use of bright colours at the Emanuel Ungaro show – sunshine yellows and turquoise. The colours weren’t the only bold elements, with polka dots, leopard print, fur, tweed, leather and some slightly garish gold embellishments all jostling for attention – thank goodness the hair and make up was kept simple!

When you look past the ‘shoutier’ elements you can see some nicely tailored trousers and jackets and interesting dress shapes. Plus a few exaggerated shoulders that are a nod to the house’s eighties heyday. Many names have designed for Emanuel Ungaro over the years and therefore the brand has lost a little of its identity, but Fausto Paglisi has put his own stamp on it this season. While some of the results were a bit too garish, other times, such as with the understated pinstripes, he seemed to get it just right. There’s no denying it is fun collection though, and a nice change in pace from the season’s often monochrome runways.

Images from Style.com