London Fashion Week AW15 - runway highlights

New York, London and Milan Fashion Weeks have been and gone for another season, and with the fashion pack in Paris for the final week of madness, I wanted to share a few of my runway highlights so far. First up, London.

London is often regarded as the most creative and original fashion week (I would say that...) and ever since the legendary Christoper Kane brought Burberry back to our capital in 2009, it has continued to grow in status. (As a side note, I truly believe Christopher Kane should be knighted for wrestling Burberry back from the chavs, establishing it as a British icon to be proud of once more, and making it the most desirable ticket on the LFW schedule.)

This year sees the return of another British icon, Gareth Pugh, who has spent the last seven years showing in Paris and Milan. This is definitely cause for celebration and a good move on his part – there is no denying his dark aesthetic and almost McQueen-like theatrics belongs with the home crowd.

So without further ado, let's take a look at some of this season's most inspiring looks...

Gareth Pugh, AW15

Gareth Pugh's return to London was always going to be a dramatic one and, according to the man himself, inspiration was drawn from the equally optimistic and dark notion of 'sacrificing yourself to something bigger'. His own English heritage and sense of national pride was quite literally painted on the models' faces, who all sported dramatic St George's Crosses.

Ok, so we might not be recreating the makeup anytime soon, and the hats may be a little much for a Wednesday morning in the office, but the coats? The coats were beautiful, wearable and impeccably tailored. Another fabulous, dramatic show from the man whose genius was described as 'undeniable' by British Vogue back in 2007.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15

Nobody is going to be surprised to see me include a little Vivienne Westwood Red Label. I love this woman and for very good reason. Yes, her show will always have an agenda (this time promoting the Green Party) and yes, her punk ways will always be evident in the styling (disheveled hair and makeup, skull jewellery) but don't let all that detract from the fact that Ms Westwood sure knows how to cut clothes for women. You only have to look at the drape of her dresses to see why women feel like women in her clothes.

On a personal note, she incorporated just the right amount of animal print to keep me happy. Whether it was to add personality to an otherwise classic look (above left) or in a stunning dress that screams sex in all the right ways, she was right on the money.

Giles AW15

Oh Giles, what can I say... you really know how to put on a show! Here's yet another British boy who can combine glamour, theatrics and the slightly bizarre and produce something truly magical. The collection was reminiscent of the early Giles Deacon dark aesthetic, combining Victoriana ruff-collars and corsets with gothic black lipstick. All of which were given added drama by an all-star cast of models, including Lily Donaldson, Jessica Stam, Kendall Jenner, Erin O'Conner and Edie Campbell.

The collection was actually very wearable, if you look past the haunting theme and examine the individual pieces. The tailoring was superb and I'm a little bit in love with the Miss Haversham-esque tree and jewel print fabric (above). Definitely one of my favourite collections this season.

Felder Felder AW15

I've had a real soft spot for Felder Felder ever since my good friend Sian and I queued in the cold for an hour to get into one of their shows. It was a hot ticket and we were the last people allowed inside before the doorman slammed the doors and turned the rest of the queue away! Needless to say I was hoping we would be rewarded with a good show, and we were. Since 2006, twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder have been making industry waves with their feminine yet edgy designs and this season was no different.

The collection was inspired by 1960s German model Uschi Ubermaier and subsequently there were a lot of short skirts and sheer fabrics (presumably the versions that hit the shops will be lined). The fabrics were certainly beautiful. Black and teal are two of my favourite colours and, whether 60s or 90s inspired, I do appreciate a short hemline. One thing that I've only just learnt is that the Felder sisters are commited vegans, so not only are their clothes beautiful but they are cruelty free! Good job ladies.

Ashish AW15

If Vivienne Westwood screams sex in a classy way, this next show screamed sex quite literally, with the word emblazoned across the sweatshirt of the second look that graced the catwalk. Ashish had his reasons for this overt message, saying, "I think it is interesting that when a woman dresses sexily, she is labelled a slut. Which I find strange and offensive – it should not be the case. Everybody should be free to dress how they want without being labeled. I wanted it to be sexy and powerful – empowering."

Whether bright red thigh-high boots inspired by Parisian streetwalkers are the way to go about spreading this message is up to the individiual, but what I will say is that Ashish produced possibly my most-wanted piece of LFW. Nope, not the sequined underwear.... not the thigh-high boots.... it was that coat. A sequined parka with leopard print lining?! He may as well have sewn my name straight into the label.

All images from www.style.com

The Used at Koko – bourbon, burgers and Bert McCracken

There are a few bands that you inevitably buy tickets for, no matter how busy your schedule is or what other events might be causing you to hemorrhage cash that month, and for me The Used is one of them. If Bert McCracken's in town, you can bet your bottom dollar I'm going to be there too.

Last Thursday The Used played Koko and having seen them plenty of times before, I'll admit the first question on all of our minds was, where should we have our pre-gig dinner? Typically if I'm in Camden I'm drawn to Hache, like a ravenous moth to a delicious flame. It's a gourmet burger place a stone's throw from the tube station (gourmet in the good sense, not the pretentious kind of place that thinks that four chips constitutes a portion). The food is incredible for carnivores and herbivores alike and if it's been a few months I start to get cravings.

Recently, however, we've been trying to branch out, so my BBQ loving BFF suggested we try The Blues Kitchen, which turned out to be a pretty good call. It has the distinctly Southern American vibe that the name suggests, live music later in the evening, and over 100 types of bourbon.

The Blues Kitchen – bourbon anyone?!

The food was good and the drinks selection even better, although I did reel in horror while weighing up the bourbon choice, when our waitress said, "don't worry, by the time you've got a mixer in it you won't taste the difference anyway!" Really? Really?! Anyway the bourbon was great, my creole bean burger was delicious and we were soon on our way to Koko.

Last time I saw The Used at Scala I think the two points I made very clearly were a) how much I love this band and b) how fantastic and engaging Bert is (you can read about that night here), and this show was much the same. The more you see a band the harder it is to write about them, especially if they consistently put on a good show, and you find yourself tempted to write a three word review: It Was Awesome. But there's always a twist to the tale and, just when I think The Used can't make me love them anymore, they incorporated New Noise into Maybe Memories to kick things off. And we all know how much I love me some Refused.

The fourteen-song set then consisted of almost exactly what you would expect: Take It Away, The Bird and the Worm, I Caught Fire, Listening, The Taste of Ink, All That I've Got, Cry, Revolution, The Best Of Me, Blood On My Hands and Pretty Handsome Awkward. Fairly short and sweet but pretty darn perfect and a nice showcase of over a decade of hard work.

As I've said before, I'm a fan of The Used's sound from the early days of their self-titled album right up to last year's release, Imaginary Enemy. I think it's the sign of a great band when the setlist can span the years seamlessly and, despite a variety of ages in the crowd, each song gets an (almost) identical reaction. The only glaring omission appears to be 2012's Vulnerable, which for some reason is notably absent from recent shows. I'd like to see the raw energy of Hands and Faces live but I have a sneaking suspicion it won't happen any time soon.

The night concluded with an acoustic performance of On My Own performed from the balcony then back onto the stage for A Box Full Of Sharp Objects with a bit of Nirvana and Rage Against The Machine thrown into the intro and outro for good measure. What can I say? A night that starts with bourbon and ends with Bert McCracken was always going to be a good one.

theused.net
@WeAreTheUsed

Cinderella's glass slipper reimagined by Jimmy Choo

To celebrate the release of Disney's live-action Cinderella next month, some of the biggest names in shoe design have reimagined the princess' iconic glass slipper – Jimmy Choo, Nicholas Kirkwood, Charlotte Olympia, Stuart Weitzman, Salvatore Ferragamo and Paul Andrew to name a few. The results are as magical as you would expect and will be available to order soon from key stores around the world, including Harrods and Saks Fifth Avenue. I assume the price tags will also be fit for a princess, but if you have a fairy godmother then it's time to start calling in the favours....

"I think every girl desires a Cinderella moment in their lives," says Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo. "This story ignites a love affair and fascination with shoes that never dies. The power they have to transform is instilled from a young age and the fantasy remains alive forever. I wanted to create a shoe that felt magical, with alluring sparkle and a feminine, timeless silhouette evoking those childhood emotions."

The stunning design from Jimmy Choo has achieved exactly that, with a timeless shape and plenty of sparkle. You can see a few more of my favourite sketches below. I think Cinderella would have a tough time picking a winner...

Nicholas Kirkwood

Paul Andrew

Salvatore Ferragamo

Cinderella will be in cinemas from 13 March (US) and 27 March (UK)

Kotur's 'ouija board' clutch bag

Today a new item caught my eye by Kotur, a brand that was founded 10 years ago by Fiona Kotur, whose bags have been featured on shows like Lipstick Jungle and Gossip Girl and have taken many trips down the red carpet.

There are many beautiful clutches out there, so it takes something a bit different to stand out from the crowd, and this is definitely not something I've seen before. Designed to resemble a ouija board, this perspex box clutch is lined with brocade and has an optional shoulder strap. Black and gold is a classic combination (and a personal favourite), but the design idea is totally unique. Who would have thought that the star of many a cheap horror film would make such a classy container for your lipstick and credit card?

Merrick perspex box clutch, £615 by Kotur www.net-a-porter.com
Find more fabulous Kotur designs at www.koturltd.com

Happy New Year!

That’s right, it’s January, which means two inevitable things; plenty of shit weather, and New Year’s resolutions that are predestined to fall by the wayside before the month is out. However on a more positive note, it is also the month in which I will finally turn thirty, so for once January seems like an ideal time for new beginnings to me. My twenties have been interesting to say the least – the highs have been high and the lows have been low – but it's true that you have to experience darkness if you want to see the stars.

I lost my creative mojo at the end of last year. Life was a little hectic/stressful, winter weather and short days make me incredibly lethargic and, as a result, writing fell by the wayside, particularly this blog. I knew things were getting bad when I failed to write about any of the gigs that I went to in November or December. It seems a pity to let them slide into obscurity, as they were definitely some of my highlights in recent months, so here’s a little summary...

Bayside at Sticky Mike’s Frog Bar, Brighton – Sunday 16 November

This was Bayside’s first headlining gig in the UK for a long time and, as I’ve said before, I love seeing my favourite bands play tiny venues. The unnervingly named Sticky Mike’s Frog Bar is certainly one of those places where you are right in the middle of action; cosy in winter but no doubt unbearably hot in summer.

I never have anything bad to say about Bayside and as usual they lived up to expectations. They sounded great and gave us 16 songs of pure joy, starting with Boy and The Walking Wounded and working their way through to Stuttering (from their latest album Cult) and The Ghost of St Valentine, a personal favourite.

I’ve seen Bayside many times before, but the standout moment for me came after the show. Being such a low-key affair, bassist Nick and guitarist Jack were selling merchandise at the bar. It was an opportunity not to be missed and, having drunk just the right amount of beer, I decided to stroll on over and proclaim my undying love for the band. They were very sweet, happy to take photos and gracious enough not to make me feel like the idiot fan that I am! I honestly didn't think I could love Bayside any more....
 

You can watch the video for Pigsty from Cult here.

 

Trapt at Borderline – Tuesday 18 November

This was a moment that I had been anticipating for more years than I care to remember. To say I was excited when Trapt finally announced a London show would be a serious understatement, and to finally see them at a place like Borderline was a bonus. It’s another venue that is small enough to have the perfect atmosphere and conveniently located in Soho.

Pre-gig dinner was consumed at Kua ‘Aina (worth a mention as I have to love a Hawaiian burger joint that serves Kona Big Wave beer and has options in the menu that can easily be adapted for vegans). We then arrived at Borderline and something to note if you are going to a show here, once you have gone in you can’t leave and come back! We had time to kill so we headed to the back of the venue and found a spot by the bar to drink some beers and pass the time, before heading forwards just before Trapt arrived on stage.

They didn’t play the longest setlist in the world but it as a good one and the energy on stage and in the crowd was fantastic. From the opening chords of Bring It right through to Headstrong and an encore of Stand Up and Still Frame, the momentum never slowed – except perhaps for Black Rose which was a nicely timed change of pace before the more recent Love Hate Relationship.

I think like me, many people had been waiting a very long time for Trapt to come to London. It's been just over 12 years since their self-titled album found them a loyal following and if you live in the UK, chances are you might never have seen them live before. Was it worth the wait? Hell yes. And hopefully next time they won't leave it so long before returning.

Gaslight Anthem at Alexander Palace – Wednesday 18 November 

Sadly this night began with an epic failure. Transport issues, bad judgement and the fact that the venue is on top of a great big bloody hill meant that we missed the support act. This wouldn’t normally be a problem but the first band on stage was Bayside.

In our defence their stage time was ridiculously early, in fact so early that it warranted a tweet or two from the band, who were clearly aware that most people would miss them if they didn’t spread the word! Luckily Bayside's Brighton show, just days before, was so good that missing them didn’t upset us as much as it could have, and at least we were in time for Gaslight Anthem.

I’m not the biggest fan of Alexander Palace as a venue, it’s too big and lacking in atmosphere (although the selection of food and beer is pretty darn impressive). The last time I was there was to see the legendary Alice Cooper and the fact that he puts on such an impressive stage show kind of distracts you from the venue’s lack of personality. Now Gaslight Anthem may not have incorporated live animals or pyrotechnics into their show, but they are just so bloody good that they made me forget where I was.

I’ve reviewed their shows several times before, so if you want to read more then click here, but I do want to mention my highlight – a moment that truly made up for the fact we had missed Bayside. Brian Fallon brought out Bayside’s Anthony Raneri to sing Great Expectations with him. It was one of those beautiful moments that send shivers down your spine and makes all the hassle of getting to certain shows seem worth it.

Taking Back Sunday at The Roundhouse – Tuesday 9 December

©Michael Dubin

The Roundhouse isn’t my favourite venue either, but whether Taking Back Sunday are playing here or in a field in the Welsh countryside, they are never anything short of brilliant. This was my third time seeing them in 2014 alone so I won’t bore you with the details (you can find more TBS ramblings here), but as always they put together a setlist that left me smiling and singing my heart out.

Seriously, this band know what they are doing. They always manage to integrate new material into their setlist flawlessly, playing new songs like Beat Up Car, Stood A Chance and Better Homes and Gardens alongside classics like Liar, Timberwolves at New Jersey and My Blue Heaven. Predictably they closed with Cute Without the 'E' and Make Damn Sure, and you know what? I'm happy they did! Another flawless performance from a consistently brilliant band.

Random moment of the night would probably be when I decided to purchase a bottle of Prosecco at the bar (I’d consumed a lot of beer and mulled wine and it’s not often that Prosecco is an option at a gig so I thought, why not?!), without considering that we wouldn’t be allowed the glass bottle and therefore my friend and I had to consume our halves out of plastic pint glasses! Not the smartest plan or the classiest behaviour in the world but amusing nevertheless.


Danny Elfman at The Royal Albert Hall – Friday 12 December

My last event to wrap up a busy few weeks came courtesy of my beautiful sister and brother-in-law, who bought us tickets to see Danny Elfman's music from Tim Burton films being performed at The Royal Albert Hall. We had a fantastic seat in a box with just two other people and it was a truly memorable night.

The orchestra were fantastic, as were the choir, and while they performed music from Burton's classics (including Edward Scissor Hands, Batman, Beetle Juice and Sleepy Hollow), clips from the films were shown on a screen above.

At the end of the evening Danny Elfman himself arrived on stage to perform a selection of songs from my favourite, The Nightmare Before Christmas. It was another of those magical moments that you know will stay with you forever.

And that just about wraps up my brief rundown of gigs from the end of last year. Hopefully I have got my writing mojo back as I have one or two shows on the horizon already. But first up was a different event – I went to see my beloved New York Knicks playing at the O2 last week. Despite the fact they are having a difficult season (and lost yet another game), I was still very excited to show some support, drink some beers and get another glimpse of the legend that is Pablo Prigioni.

Until next time, I hope you are having a very happy New Year.

Olympia le-Tan's Disney inspired clutch bags

If you can't appreciate a bit of novelty value in the run-up to Christmas, when can you? Having said that, if you are starting to feel that the British public have taken the crap festive jumper thing a bit too far, you might just prefer these Disney-themed embroidered clutch bags by Olympia Le Tan. I know they are a little more expensive than your average Primark jumper, but they are so much more chic, right?

The popularity of the designer's previous literary-inspired bags makes the collaboration with Disney an obvious choice. So if you want to inject a bit of grown-up Disney magic into your wardrobe (and have £1,105 to spare, or a fairy godmother) then head on over to www.net-a-porter.com.

Today's Soundtrack: Trapt – Bring It

Today's soundtrack is Bring It by Trapt. It would have been impossible to pick my favourite Trapt song as there really are too many, so I went with something from their most recent album, Reborn.

Formed in California in 1997, Trapt have six studio albums and countless tours under their belt. They are probably best known for 2003's Headstrong, but more than 10 years later they still have plenty of die-hard fans; enough to raise $50,000 via a crowdfunding campaign to produce their next album DNA.

As far as rock bands go, Trapt have a pretty commercial sound – I recently read somebody describe Headstrong as the nu-metal Eye Of The Tiger! – but I have a bit of a soft spot for them. I've been waiting a very long time for them to come to London and finally next week they'll be performing at Borderline. I'll have had the privilege of seeing some of my favourite bands several times this year, but to see one for the very first time, that has been in my life for so long, is pretty special.



www.trapt.com
@TRAPTOFFICIAL