Tuesday, 7 July 2015

Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street style

I visited the London Imperial War Museum's Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street Style exhibition a while back and felt it was worth sharing, despite the fact that my recent schedule means that it has taken me a while to sit down and write about it. The exhibition explores how rationing affected the way that women dressed during the war and how the limitations led to incredible creativity. In was VE Day weekend when my friend Chloe and I visited, which made the content all the more poignant.

A female member of ARP staff applies her lipstick, Kingston House 1940 © IWM

This fascinating collection of clothes, accessories, photographs and film clips, offers an insight into the reality of day-to-day dressing during the wartime era. It's a wonderful opportunity to see the uniforms for the women's branches of the armed forces. I've seen them many times in photographs, (my grandmother was a Wren), but up close you can see the level of craftsmanship that went into them. The military uniforms are actually incredibly well cut and stylish, with great attention paid to details like buttons and seams.

Farm workers and factory workers had more practical outfits, swapping pencil skirts for trousers and overalls, but what struck me most was the effort that women still made with their appearance. Even if their clothes were practical and non-negotiable, their hair was still neatly styled and many had a face of immaculate makeup that would put me to shame on a Monday morning!

During WWII there was a genuine concern that letting physical standards slip was a sign of low morale and, while I'm sure there are women who would challenge this notion, I think many of us can relate to the idea of wanting to look and feel our best during challenging times. I know I literally paint on my game face on the days that I need a boost  – it's just as effective and far more appropriate than Dutch courage in most situations!

It is inspirational to see women with so much pride, dignity and glamour during war time, and particularly important to remind ourselves how lucky we are to live in a world without rationing. It must have been so challenging to maintain a personal style without the luxury of treating yourself to a new outfit or lipstick once in a while, but the upside to austerity is that it certainly breeds creativity. Amongst the accessories on display at the exhibition are a pair of earrings that are believed to have been made from the windscreen of a crashed German aircraft.

An example of how British women dressed in wartime utility ©IWM


The displays also include examples of the 'Utility' clothing that was introduced by the government in 1941 to keep clothing prices down, producing items that were cost-effective, hard wearing and made the most of the materials available. Naturally the public were sceptical initially, but opinion changed when the clothing proved to be stylish despite the low cost. This became the first time that high-end designers created clothes for the mass market, which undoubtedly paved the way for designers' diffusion ranges that we see today.

Wartime was not only tough for consumers but understandably for retailers too, who had to come up with their own creative solutions – one of which was the gas mask handbag. Presumably if a stylish lady was going to have to tote round a gas mask on a daily basis it may as well look like a cute handbag! Even beauty companies like Coty diversified, contributing to the war effort by producing army foot powder and anti-gas ointment alongside their heavily taxed face powders.

Respirator Carrier Handbag © IWM

One of the most surprising elements of the exhibition was the amount of colour and print included. I can only assume that this is because, much like the images I have included here, our visual references from the era are typically in black and white. It is easy to forget that in fact a vast array of prints were utilised.

On a historical level it is a very interesting exhibition, however it is on a human level that it really comes into its own. Seeing women who faced a terrifyingly uncertain future, separated from their sons and husbands, adapting to work in a manner that many had never had to before, filled me with a sense of pride and awe. We all need the occasional reminder of how lucky we are to live in a free country, and to see these women accomplish so many things with a brave and beautifully painted face? To me that's real inspiration.

Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street Style at the Imperial War Museum, London until 31 August 2015
www.iwm.org.uk
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Thursday, 30 April 2015

Once upon a time in the West...

Round Up Leather Sandals, £695

I love Charlotte Olympia for the same reason that I love Sophia Webster – she combines fashion and humour to produce accessories that make you smile and drool in equal measures (now there's a delightful image for you!). We all know that there's a fine line between fun and tacky, therefore I'm continually impressed that these ladies can incorporate flamingos and cats or pineapples and chili peppers into their work and not lose any of the glamour.

Today I want to share a few items from Charlotte Olympia's It Happened Out West SS15 and Down Mexico Way Resort collections. From cowboy heels to a chili pepper clutch, this woman really knows the way to my heart....

Chili Pandora Perspex Clutch, £825



Celebration Meredith Linen Sandals, £9925

Bandana Pandora Perspex Clutch, £695



Smokin' Perspex Shoulder Bag, £1,645


For lots more fabulous accessories, including piñata, taco and sugar skull bags, head over to www.net-a-porter.com
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Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Alexander McQueen: special edition scarves





Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty broke the record for the most-ever advance sales for a V&A exhibition. It is bigger than its predecessor at Now York's Metropolitan Museum of Art and has been hailed as a must-see for lovers of fashion. I'm curious to go, now that the initial hype as died down, because although it is aesthetically impressive by all accounts, some questions have been raised about the lack of context that the curation provides. I'm reserving judgement until I have seen it for myself, however I'm fairly sure it will enchant me in the same way as the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore exhibition at Somerset House.

In the meantime I wanted to share a couple of things that have been created as a direct result of this exhibition's magnitude. Firstly, Alexander McQueen's special edition scarves. The iconic McQueen scarf has been reinvented for this collection and each one displays an iconic piece of the designer's work. When laid flat the items are seen in all their original glory but worn as a scarf, the colours and patterns transform into something completely unique.

The Widows of Culloden scarf references McQueen's AW06 show inspired by his Scottish roots, and the It's Only a Game scarf references his SS05 show inspired by the 1975 film Picnic At Hanging Rock.

'Widows of Culloden' and 'It's Only A Game' scarves

From fashion to food, here's an entirely different way to celebrate some of McQueen's most iconic pieces. You might recall my trip to the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge to sample their fashion-inspired afternoon tea, where the exquisite desserts each reflect an item from the current season's catwalk. Well Prêt-à-Portea is celebrating Savage Beauty in its own delicious way – with a biscuit creation of the iconic armadillo heels and a stunning version of the butterfly hat created by Philip Treacy for the SS08 McQueen collection, made of chocolate mousse covered in sugar butterflies.

The Caramel Rooms at the Berkeley Hotel



And as if that wasn't enough McQueen for one day (is there such a thing?!), you can also purchase the book to accompany the exhibition. I think this will be my downfall, I really struggle to resist fashion coffee-table books....

www.the-berkeley.co.uk
www.alexandermcqueen.com
www.vam.ac.uk
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Friday, 17 April 2015

Silverstein at the O2 Academy, Islington



Two weeks ago I received an email reminding me about my 'upcoming event', Silverstein at The Islington Academy. Erm, what now? You would think I would remember purchasing tickets to see one of my favourite bands, but no... and it wasn't until I had trawled through my emails that I finally remembered the slight credit card-bashing ticket-buying spree I went on last November, that included none other than Silverstein in Islington. So a big thank you to me from the past for buying such a wonderful present!

Canadian post-hardcore band Silverstein are currently celebrating the 10th anniversary of their second album Discovering the Waterfront (featuring the classic My Heroine amongst others) by playing the record in its entirety. As if that wasn't enough, they are opening shows with a handful of their most beloved from across the band's back catalogue.

So last Thursday, after a classy dinner of burritos and beer in the park, we went to Islington and found a pretty packed Academy waiting for us. (Word to the wise, if you can nab a spot at the back by the bar you can enjoy unobstructed views and easy drinks access.)

Making friends in the park...


The last time I saw Silverstein was at the Underworld when they were promoting their latest album This Is How The Wind Shifts (you can read about that night here) and I said that it was the most excited I had been about a gig in a long time and that it would be very tough to beat. They set the bar high but yet again they killed it!

They opened on a high-energy note with Smashed Into Pieces and Massachusetts, followed by a mix of old and newer material including Sacrifice, Bleeds No More and my personal favourite, Vices. I think everyone in the room was singing along to every word, no surprise really considering this band's knack for combining amazing music with ridiculously catchy lyrics. Silverstein kept the momentum going whilst working their way through the entire of Discovering the Waterfront, finishing on a high with Call It Karma. A perfect night.


At the end of the show we were all on beer-fuelled high and went to meet front man Shane Told, who was happily taking photos and chatting to fans. This is surprisingly rare for a band that can easily fill a venue the size of Islington Academy and gave me a new found respect for a band that I already love. Thank you Silverstein for another epic show, here's to the next one!

My good friend Christopher and I after far too many beers, with a patient Shane Told...


www.silversteinmusic.com
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Saturday, 21 March 2015

Sophia Webster Spring 2015 collection


Spring is finally here! I'm still wearing a coat and my 'I Hate Winter' hat (both literally and metaphorically) but the daffodils are making an appearance and reminding me that summer will be here before we know it; daylight until 10pm, short-shorts, sandals, picnics in the park, Pimms.... bring it on.

Yesterday was not only notable for a solar eclipse (such as it was in London), but it was also the spring equinox – midway between the longest and shortest day of the year – marking the start of the far superior half of the year in my opinion. To celebrate the arrival of spring I wanted to share the new collection from shoe designer extraordinaire, Sophia Webster.


You might recall me drooling over her designs for the first time at London Fashion Week in 2012 and since then she has most definitely achieved the success she deserves, even collaborating with Victoria's Secret - a match made in fashion heaven.

Her SS15 collection is as bold and beautiful as you would expect, although this time Webster decided to retain the girly aesthetic she's known for but crank up the attitude. The result? A jungle rave presentation held in Southbank's vaults and a fabulous collection of neon footwear featuring her typical Aztec designs in addition to animal print, bold florals and... bananas.

The wonderful thing about Sophia Webster footwear is that although her designs are wild, her aesthetic is always beautiful; the shapes of the shoes themselves are always perfectly proportioned. (I will never understand the recent ugly shoe trend, please please leave the unflattering chunky soles and awkward heel heights in the past where they belong.)

Below are a few of my favourite designs: beautiful Rousseau inspired tiger print heels, pineapple heeled jellies and banana print flats.

Rousseau Jungle



Rosa


Adele


To see more of Sophia's fabulous designs (and equally fabulous bags!) head over to www.sophiawebster.com
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Wednesday, 11 March 2015

Benefit's Curl's Best Friend pop-up parlour

Image from telegraph.co.uk
Last week my good friend Chloe and I arranged to meet up after work for a drink and long overdue catch up, and we thought what better place to do so than at Benefit's pop-up parlour in Soho! For one month only, Curl's Best Friend is open and offering three floors worth of pampering, cake and cocktails.

The ground floor is reminiscent of a 1950s salon; pink, kitsch and impossibly girly. We were greeted by the lovely Jordan (owner of the most fabulous sparkly tuxedo jacket I have ever seen!), who found us the last remaining table and delivered impeccable customer service, despite the fact we had no appointment and were really just there to see what it was all about.

We were soon drinking bubbles and eating popcorn (having talked through what really should have been dinner time) before Jordan returned to give us the guided tour. Curl's Best Friend is a celebration of Benefit's new Roller Lash mascara, hence the 50s salon theme, but they have also offered a shout out to the best selling They're Real mascara. The second floor, otherwise known as the Noir Bar, opens at 7pm and has a much darker more edgy feel, with decor to match the cult classic's black and orange packaging.



The first floor is home to the beauty parlour where you can choose from a brow wax and tint or a blow dry from the parlour's resident hair stylists. Chloe and I both sat down with a fantastic Benefit makeup expert and were recommended a variety of Benefit products and showed how to apply them. Naturally this included the star of the show, the Roller Lash mascara.

The brush is revolutionary, hooking the lashes and separating, lifting and curling them. By this point the lovely Alison was working on top of makeup I had applied at 7am that morning so it was a little hard to establish the true benefits, but after application to one eye I could certainly see the difference. My lashes definitely had a serious curl. In fact this mascara is supposed to be so effective that you can ditch your eye lash curlers for good! I'll need to try it again to give a fair assessment, but I think it's safe to say that anyone trying to prize my Shu Uemuras out of my hands will have their work cut out...



The attention to detail at Curl's Best Friend is fantastic and to be expected from a brand like Benefit, that always manages to combine makeup and a sense of humour to create something fun yet glamourous rather than tacky.

Curl's Best Friend will remain in Soho until the end of the month before going on tour around the country. I definitely recommend checking it out, whether you want to try out the new mascara over a cocktail and a cupcake or fancy a blow dry and bubbles before a night out.

For bookings call 020 3620 4747 or download the Curl's Best Friend app
Tuesday to Saturday, 11am-11pm, Noir Bar from 7pm
26 Greek Street, Soho, W1D 5DE

www.benefitcosmetics.co.uk

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Tuesday, 10 March 2015

'Guy Bourdin: Image Maker' at Somerset House

Charles Jourdan, Spring 1979 © The Guy Bourdin Estate, 2014/Courtesy A+C


Guy Bourdin: Image Maker has entered its final week at Somerset House and if you love fashion photography this is one exhibition you don't want to miss. Frequently hailed as one of the greatest fashion photographers of all time, this protégé of the great Man Ray was certainly one of the most fascinating.

The exhibition features over 200 works, including previously unseen material from Bourdin's estate. Exhibition prints, layouts, polaroids, contact sheets, transparencies, paintings, sketches, notebooks and even film, are combined to offer a comprehensive look at the work of one of the 20th century's most iconic photographers.

Alongside Helmut Newton, Bourdin's work graced the pages of French Vogue for several decades, heavily influencing the generations of fashion photographers who would follow in his footsteps. Bourdin was formerly a painter and his photography skills were entirely self-taught, allowing a freedom when shooting fashion products that perhaps explains how he took the genre and turned it on its head. Where the product and its promotion were previously at the heart of fashion photography, for Bourdin they were of less importance than his own vision and the image as a whole.

Bourdin created something new. His photographs were amongst the first to capture a brief moment of a more complex narrative, then place the product within that moment. These narratives range from the provocative and glamorous to the surreal and mysterious. The most memorable are dark and disturbing, often hinting at something sexual and violent. The women in his images frequently appear to be dead or injured, resulting in criticism and claims that he objectified women.

Pentax Calendar, 1980 © The Guy Bourdin Estate, 2014/Courtesy A+C


French fashion designer Charles Jourdan worked with Bourdin on his advertising campaigns for many years, and it is some these images (and an accompanying film), that you see first when you enter the exhibition. In 1979 Bourdin shot a campaign called 'Walking Legs', which entailed driving around quintessentially English landscapes and shooting Jourdan's shoes on two mannequin legs in various poses. It is incredible how just the lower legs and shoes can hint at a much bigger story, allowing the viewer to interpret each image in their own way. It is also interesting to see how well Jourdan's designs have withstood the test of time. In some images the quintessentially seventies cars in the background look as dated as you would expect, while the shoes have lost none of their appeal!


Charles Jourdan, Autumn 1979 © The Guy Bourdin Estate, 2014/Courtesy A+C

Bourdin was a perfectionist and subsequently he was heavily involved in his layouts for French Vogue. It speaks volumes of the regard in which he was held that the editors allowed him to see his work through from conception to completion in the magazine. Despite his strong vision and need for editorial control, it is interesting that he had little desire to preserve his work, even reportedly once requesting that it all be destroyed upon his death. He rejected the Grand Prix National de la Photographie and refused various exhibition and book offers. The first book of his work wasn't published until a decade after his death.


Vogue Paris, May 1970 © The Guy Bourdin Estate, 2014/Courtesy A+C

It is Bourdin's unwavering vision and limitless creativity that makes his work so appealing and memorable. He was an artist and a storyteller and the reason that he succeeded in fashion photography is because his stories were strong enough to sell products. Most impressive is the fact that he was successful in this field despite an apparent disregard for conventional notions of beauty, good taste and the traditional portrayal of products.

Many of the images in the exhibition are difficult to decode and open to personal interpretation. It is impossible to view Bourdin's work without attempting to fill in the blanks, asking 'who is the girl in the picture and what is her story?' These images are compelling; some are overwhelming in their beauty, while others they are so uncomfortable that you have to walk away.

Bourdin has inspired many of today's great fashion photographers including my personal favourite, Tim Walker, whose images are equally fuelled by stories that take priority over the product being sold. However if viewing Walker's most memorable work feels like you are entering a dreamland, Bourdin's feels more like a nightmare. Dark, foreboding yet equally impossible to forget.


Charles Jourdan, Autumn 1970 © The Guy Bourdin Estate, 2014/Courtesy A+C


See Guy Bourdin: Image Maker at the Embankment Galleries, Somerset House, until Sunday 15th March. £9, daily 10.00-18-00 (last admission 17.15) and until 21.00 Thursday (last admission 20.15). For more information and tickets visit www.somersethouse.org.uk
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